A hand bender head is covered in marks that look like decoration until someone tells you the system. There are four: the arrow, the star, the rim notch, and the degree scale. Each one answers a different question, and mixing them up is the most common reason a bend lands in the wrong place.
The arrow — usually cast right at the tip of the hook — is your default reference. Line your conduit mark up with the arrow for stub-ups (mark = stub height minus take-up) and for offset marks. If you only remember one mark, remember this one: most bends in a normal day start at the arrow.
The star marks the back of a 90° bend — where the bend ends, not where it starts. It is the tool for back-to-back 90s: bend your first 90 at the arrow, measure the distance between the two bends from the back of the first bend, mark that point, then line the star up with the mark and reverse the bender. Your second 90 now starts exactly the right distance away.
The rim notch sits at the center of the bender's curvature. For a 3-point saddle, you center the saddle's middle mark on the rim notch and bend to 45°, then flip the conduit and place the arrow (or the specified outer mark) at the two outer marks for the 22.5° return bends. Saddles are the one bend where the center mark matters — and the notch is how you find it.
The curved scale on the head shows common angles — usually 10, 22.5, 30, 45, and 60 degrees. Watch the scale, not your arms: stop when the conduit reaches the number. This is also the cheapest way to diagnose a wandering multiplier — if your offsets keep coming out wrong, check whether you are actually hitting the angle you think you are.
With 1/2" EMT you need two parallel stubs 24" apart. Bend the first 90 at the arrow. Measure 24" from the back of that bend, mark, line the star up with the mark, flip the bender, and bend the second 90. The stubs come out 24" apart on center. Do the same job at the arrow and you will be short by the take-up — 5" on a 1/2" bender — every time.
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